No one really knows exactly when the benefits of impregnating cotton or canvas with wax was first discovered. It likely started with sailors and fishermen realising that their sails worked better when they were wet, and some bright spark hit upon the notion of coating them in oil (probably fish oil), so rather than soaking up sea spray and rain it just ran off. Another likely scenario is that fishermens clothes became naturally soaked in fish oil whilst working. This especially so for those making their career catching the king of oily fish, the herring. They would soon notice that the oil soaked parts of their clothes repelled water. Making outerwear deliberately soaked in the stuff was a logical, if disgustingly smelly, next step. And so the wax jacket was born. More recently linseed oil, parrafin wax and modern ‘dry’ waxes have been used, all of which are less repulsive to the nose.
The first commercial production of waxed garments was developed in the eighteenth century by the Scottish company, Francis Webster Ltd. Their coating was based on linseed oil and was very successful, supplying the navy. The downside with linseed oil was that had to be regularly reapplied and that it turned yellow with age, hence why sailors garb is still traditionally yellow to this day.
Nineteenth and Twentieth Century Wax
Paraffin wax was found to be more durable, and neither cracking nor discolouring. Francis Webster started using it along with British Millerain in the late 1800s. British Millearain are still a family owned company manufacturing to this day, and their history is fascinating, they went on to buy out Francis Webster Ltd. Another name familiar to this day burst on the scene in 1894; J Barbour and Sons, going on to be synonymous with the wax jacket. Wax coatings have been refined and developed over the decades and are a million miles away from their greasy forebears.
Speedkings
The motorcycle became popular in the early twentieth century and the then head of Barbour, Duncan Barbour, was a huge fan of the two wheel death traps. A range of wax jackets and suits were made and became the standard, being worn at competition level right up until the mid 70s, today they have revived their motorcycle styles under the Barbour International brand.
Another giant of a brand muscled into the scene in the 1920s, Belstaff, who are still linked inextricably to motorcycling. Icons such as Steve McQueen and even Che Guevara sported a Belstaff jacket, their profile contributed hugely to the popularity of the brand; McQueen was shot on film in the Great Escape in one, Guevara was just shot.
Fashion Icons
By the post war period these waxed garments had gone from being purely practical to being fashion statements. They had effectively become the uniform of country sports and motorbike enthusiasts. Development was overseen by generations of the founding families. Barbour and British Millerain remaining family run businesses to this day. Belstaff is owned by Sir Jim Ratcliffe in his global portfolio of brands under the Ineos flag, but it is still run with the passion that it has always embodied.
The other iconic garment is surely the Driza-Bone stockman coat, the Australian brand that effectively introduced the wax coat to the world of the cowboy.
Harness the Hipster
Surely the twenty first century with its scientific advances in waterproof membranes and sophisticated fabrics would be the death knell for the archaic wax jacket? Not bloody likely. Barbour and Belstaff have been elevated to luxury brands that produce clothes fit for the cat walk. Their ranges are aimed at the city and town as much as the country, a change that is beautifully illustrated by comparing their catalogues over the years.
Here’s a current wax jacket:
And here is one from thirty or so years ago – you’re unlikely to see this kind of image in any Barbour advertising these days:
Image from a Barbour catalogue from the late 80s/early 90s
The chap with the sheep on his shoulders is convinced he’s doing no wrong, while the feller behind knows he’s gone haywire and wants nothing to do with it. The sheep, meanwhile, seems to be thinking ‘here we go again’. The recipient of the catalogue, on the other hand, decides that it must be a bomb-proof coat to stand up to that kind of treatment, and immediately buys one.
Why the wax jacket is still king
A wax cotton coat feels natural as soon as you put one on. The longer you own and wear it the more characterful it becomes, they bear the trials and tribulations of a tough life with glee. Many owners keep having them repaired, and of course reproofed regularly. Indeed there are independent craftspeople whio will repair, reproof and even customise your jackets, just have a look at Mallin & Son.
The crowning glory has to be the strength of the garments, Barbour refer to their wax dressing as being ‘thornproof’, and I can attest to their durability, having pushed my way through brambles and buckthorn that would shred nylon.
Here is a Barbour video celebrating their heritage:
