Blundering into Winter
Beekeepers stress that the transition from Summer to Autumn and Winter is a critical time in the apiary, a point that is fundamental to the colonies very survival. Now, I’m not sure that I class myself as a Beekeeper (with a capital B) just quite yet, so it feels like a thing that I can really mess up if I don’t get it just right. Words like ‘crucial’, ‘challenging’ and ‘essential’ crop up a lot in talk of this stage, but then that is a common thread through all of the literature surrounding this perplexing hobby. Whilst you can find enormous amounts of directions and how-to guides to beekeeping, it all starts to get a bit wooly when you drill down into it, as I’ve said before every single beekeeper seems to have their own take of the what-why-and when of the pastime.
So what follows is a breakdown of what the perceived wisdom is and what the reality is for me and the beekeepers I keep mithering for hints and tips.
Assessing Hive Health and Strength
Late Summer:
It’s important to carry out thorough hive inspections to assess the overall health and strength of your colonies. Look for signs of a strong queen, a good brood pattern, and a healthy population of worker bees. Check for Diseases and Pests: Monitor for common issues such as Varroa mites, Nosema, and foulbrood. Varroa mites are particularly problematic in late summer, as their numbers can surge. Use a combination of visual inspections and mite drop counts to evaluate the infestation levels.
It kind of is what it is, you can’t squeeze more eggs out of a queen, plus it’s a queen I’ve never actually found… She must be there as eggs are being laid and raised but I’m buggered if I can find her. I have got a board in at the bottom of the hive to collect dead varroa mites to assess how bad it is, and a bottle of varroa killer which I’ll dose them with regardless.
Autumn:
Reduce Hive Entrances: As the weather cools and the foraging season ends, reducing hive entrances can help protect against robbing by other bees and wasps, which is more common in autumn when nectar sources are scarce.
Yeah well that’s easy, just flipping the bit of wood around in the entrance, it has a smaller notch on its other side
Harvesting Honey
Final Honey Harvest: If you haven’t already, now is the time to perform your final honey harvest. Remove any surplus honey from the supers, leaving enough stores for the bees to sustain themselves through winter. A general rule is to leave around 20-30 kg of honey per colony, though this can vary depending on local conditions.
I harvested in July and got 55lbs of honey, I’m hoping to get some more off this month and there’ll be enough left for the bees to get through the winter. The amount is a whole super of honey left on the hive, seems straightforward doesn’t it? The definition of ‘late summer’ can be a bit vague though, this year especially it’s felt like the seasons are a month behind where they normally would be
Feeding the Bees
Assess Honey Stores: As summer ends, assess the level of honey stores in each hive. If your colonies are light on stores, you may need to start supplemental feeding.
Sugar Syrup Feeding: If necessary, feed your bees with a 2:1 sugar syrup (two parts sugar to one part water) to help them build up their winter stores. Begin feeding in late August or early September, depending on the weather and hive conditions.
I really don’t want to feed them artificially, it feels like the dividing line between organic farming and industrial farming. My plan is to leave enough honey in the hive to get them through winter – why be greedy in the step above if it causes the problems at this one? If they are going hungry why did you take honey off them at all?
Managing Varroa Mite
Varroa Treatments: Treating for Varroa mites is a critical task in late summer. Choose a treatment method suitable for your hive’s condition and temperature, such as thymol-based treatments (e.g., Apiguard) or oxalic acid vaporization. Follow the recommended treatment schedule to effectively reduce mite levels.
These little monsters are endemic in honey bee colonies, keeping them down to as low a level as possible is all we can hope for so I’ll dose them after the last honey harvest of the year.
Preparing Hives for Winter
Requeen If Necessary: If you have any weak or queenless colonies, late summer is your last chance to requeen. A young, healthy queen will lay a strong brood nest that will help the colony survive the winter.
This is above my pay grade right now, but they seem happy so I won’t be worrying myself too much
Consolidate Hives: Combine weaker colonies to create a single, stronger unit. This process, known as “uniting,” can help improve the chances of survival for bees that might struggle on their own.
My colony is fine right now, so again. not a worry
Insulation and Ventilation: Ensure your hives are well-insulated but also ventilated to prevent condensation. Use mouse guards to protect the hive entrances from intruders.
I don’t know anyone in my circle of contacts who changes or adds any insulation to the hive from summer to winter, and the hives have a mesh base already so ventilation is guaranteed
Final Thoughts
Fingers crossed they’ll be OK, I won’t be opening them up much at all through the winter to avoid stressing them. I’ll just check to see how much honey reserve they have.
Cover pic: Adobe Stock
